The Good Son has been on my list of restaurants to try since it opened in the summer of 2014. Helmed by Chef Vittorio Colacitti of Top Chef Canada, the restaurant promises a “menu [that] is a reflection of the melting pot of cultures that is entwined in the vibrant Queen West neighbourhood”. On December 2nd, we visited The Good Son to sample some of their signature dishes.
To begin, we were offered some cocktail creations by head bartender Moses McIntee. The Gin Before Bed? cocktail was quite aromatic, with its juniper, chamomile, and chai components. The Rosemary Tequila was also very good. Both balanced sweet and tart well, and both were topped with foam, adding nice texture to the cocktails.
Once we all had our welcome drink, Colacitti, standing in front of the beautiful wood-fired oven, proceeded to give us a demonstration of making the first course – the sea bream ceviche. He noted that their ceviche is made fresh and with locally sourced and organic ingredients. The ceviche was sharp and refreshing; the pomelo, avocado, jalapeño, shallots, and cilantro harmonized beautifully. The next course was the steak tartare. The tenderloin is hand cut, producing larger chunks of beef than a normal tartare, which is just the way I like it. The fries that accompanied the tartare were perfectly done – crisp on the outside, moist on the inside.
The jerk shrimp that came next was delicate and delicious. Wrapped in crisp potato strands, this dish had elements of sweet, spicy, and sour, all in one. The rib eye steak and organic salmon (top image) were the mains that followed. Tender and seasoned nicely, the rib eye is excellent, and the roast vegetables were flavourful and cooked to the right softness. The organic salmon was no slouch either. It was succulent and glistening, with the skin still crisp. Little neck clams, a pomme purée, pearl onions, and rainbow chard were great complements.
Finally, there was dessert. The Ontario apple tarte tatin was just the right sweetness, and the apples had the right firmness. A vanilla ice cream was the pairing for this dessert. The green tea crème brûlée was my favourite. It tasted like a classic crème brûlée but with a twist. The organic matcha was definitely noticeable but not overpowering, as it can be in other desserts. There were hints of lime, and sesame seeds dotted the top. This dessert was simply decadent.
By the time we finished dinner it was about 8:30 pm, and the restaurant was bustling – impressive for a Wednesday night. The Good Son was packed with happy diners, and deservedly so – each one of the dishes we sampled tonight was delicious. We certainly will be returning in the future to try the rest of their dinner menu, as well as their brunch offerings. The Good Son is located at 1096 Queen St W, just west of Dovercourt Rd.
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Twitter: @thegoodson_TO #gswintertasting
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Photos by John Tan